Cuba - June 7, 2015

Sunday, June 7, 2015: Playa Giron (Bay of Pigs), Cuba

Today I went for a swim in the Bay of Pigs or Playa Giron where the 1961 US supported Bay of Pigs invasion took place. After having taught the Cold War, including the Bay of Pigs invasion and the Cuban Missile Crisis, for many years this was very cool. In the morning after a hearty breakfast we took off by a taxi we had hired for the day. After 3 hours or so we arrived at Playa Giron. There was a fairly good museum explaining the invasion to the visitor. Naturally it was a  highly patriotric and very pro-Castro and anti-American exhibition. Some of the anti-aircraft missiles deployed were shown (most Soviet and Czeck made) and lots of pictures.

Then we went to the beach round the corner and if one wandered along a long wall, built in the 1930s I think, you came to Playa Giron were the invation took place  -  a c. 2 mile long stretch of beach, ideal for a naval landing with small to medium sized boats. Of course Castro knew about it and was waiting for the 1800 strong invaders of Cuban exiles that had been trained and equipped by Washington. Many were killed, most were captured and after a show trial they were then gradually exchanged for medical aid from the U.S.  The disastrous invasion lacked full U.S. air support and thus had no chance of succeeding. The popular uprising it was hoped to provoke was a highly optimistic scenario and never materialized. The invasion almost brought down the Kennedy administration. It contributed to the Soviet decision to deploy atomic missiles on Cuba to prevent any similar invation by US supported forces in the future on the island.

It was most interesting to see the very quiet bay and to have a swim there. Only later a few kids materialzied who also enjoyed the water. Otherwise no one was to be seen. On the way back our driver was walking toward us in the company of a very attractive French girl who then continued to go to see the Bay by herself. Much to our driver's distress, we never saw her again. She somehow disappeared. He kidn of kept looking for her and we delayed our departure quite a bit but she remained a mystery. After going to the nearby resort hotel for a refreshments we drove on to Playa Largo, another bay, where also invasion forces landed. This was however a most lively spot with lots of people in the water and on the beach. They enjoyed some good music and plenty of mochitos and pina coladas. We couldn't resist either and stayed for a little while.

Then we went on the long 3-hour drive to Havana. Here we stayed in the Riviera  hotel, that very 1950s looking hotel built and frequented by the American mafia of that era, or so everyone including the guide books tell us. It's a impressive hotel, despite its somewhat faded grandeur. Grand 1950s style foyer, nice modernized rooms. I enjoyed the huge pool in particualar though it is in need of refurbishment. It's square, very deep, with three diving boards (the tallest at least 10 meters high) and one can easily imagine Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin etc with a couple of beautiful Hollywood actresses enjoying the pool and the pool bar in the years before the 1959 revolution.

At night we embarked on a long stroll into the old town along the Macedon, that long seaside wall that is one of the crucial centers of Havana night life. Plenty of people sit on the wall or before it, listening to music, talking, eating, dancing, having fun. A very vibrant hustle and bustle goes on. It's great fun though it's a very long seaside wall, we walked for miles in total, I'm sure.  The meal in the old town was so-so but it was balanced by the great music in the little restaurant.