BERLIN DAYS.....

Sunday, April, 3, 2016

Berlin in winter is miserable. Berlin in the spring is much better. It was the first really nice weekend since I got here in late January 2016. 

What have been my impressions so far? Let's start with the less good ones. Did I mention the low temperatures, icy eastern winds and the frequent rains? The city is also much too large and too spread out. It takes you ages to get anywhere, at least an hour, if you are lucky. First, one usually needs to walk to the nearest underground or S-Bahn stop for 15 minutes or so, then you need to take the train for half an hour or so, and then at the other end you frequently have to walk for another 15 or 20 minutes to get to your destination. And if you get lost in between - which I frequently do - add on another few minutes. Great. 

Driving and finding parking is hopeless so public transport is the only way (or biking perhaps). Well if you happen to be a member of the government or a parliamentarian then you can call on the "Fahrbereitschaft" and a brand new BMW will chauffeur you to your destination in 20-25 minutes at any time of the day or night. This is highly convenient of course (and expensive, courtesy of the German taxpayer) but unfortunately this service is not offered to most of us.

Let's talk about the good sides of Berlin. The think tank I am at, the SWP (Stiftung Wissenschaft und Politik; German Institute for Security and International Affairs) is very good and professional with excellent and highly competent researchers (more than 60 I think, divided into 5 or 6 research groups, I am the group International Security Policy), including some world-class experts. Most are fairly friendly too though - as at universities the world over - some do have big egos. 

The SWP, which is independent but mostly financed by the Chancellor's office, is very well regarded and coming from here certainly opens door in political Berlin such as the Chancellery, the Foreign Ministry (Auswaertiges Amt), the parliament (Bundestag), think tanks, embassies and other institutions and even the President's office where I am having an appointment tomorrow. Most officials working at Germany's executive and legislative bodies also seem to be very competent and also very friendly and approachable (well most of them). Certainly no complaints here. I have tried to find my way round this most invigorating and varied scene and have encountered some very interesting and knowledgable people and events.

Berlin's cultural scene is also overwhelmingly good and varied, opera, theatre, concerts, movies, cabarets, lectures, you name it. The bar and restaurant scene is very impressive (as far as I could find out so far). I am also gradually discovering the more interesting hip places in Berlin such as Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg and Friendenshain where I went today for a coffee with a friend and for having a look at a small but well equipped flea market. Vinyl records definitely seem to have come in vogue again. 

I actually live in Friendenshain but of course in that part of Friendenshain which is not hip but rather boring. I was a bit unfortunate with my accommodation. It's not too bad as such, apart from its rather spartan furnishings, but the location is not great, away from anything of interest, and it's also quite overpriced for what it is. Needless to say I had no clue initially.

And one thing which always strikes me in Berlin: there are a huge number of independent book stores. Almost at any corner and in semi-busy street there is a bookstore.  This contrast very favorably with the situation in the US or the UK where these days you can walk for miles even in large cities, not to speak of smaller towns, without ever coming across a book store. No idea how these stores can survive in Berlin. Perhaps people in Germany actually still buy and read books. What a novel idea.

Now that the miserable long winter has come to an end, spring and summer seem to be very promising....more to come....